How to rebuild acrylic nails
Instructions for making yourself with pictures
If you are faced with the challenge of modeling your own nails or those of a friend with acrylic, you should first find out how to do it. The materials used and the sequence of the work steps are of central importance. Not to mention, of course, the technical nuances that need to be taken into account.
Acrylic nails instructions with pictures
These instructions help to clearly explain the essential steps and processes so that the result is as high-quality and presentable as possible. But every beginning is difficult and only Practice creates masters. So if everything does not work 100 percent during the first modeling, then there is no reason not to try again. You learn with every stroke of the brush.
Which materials are absolutely necessary
To do the acrylic modeling yourself, you first need basic equipment, a so-called starter set. This must be included:
- DGHM-listed disinfectant
- Acrylic brush made from red sable hair
- Liquid and acrylic powder in the desired colors
- Paper napkins
- Dappen Dish
- Dehydrator, possibly also a primer
- Possibly gloss gel
Depending on the desired extension method, either templates or tips, tip cutters and tip glue are required. The method with a template is more demanding, but considerably gentler on the nail.
The preparation for acrylic nail modeling
Before you can start your hands are thoroughly disinfected. Then you take the propusher and push the cuticle back to the nail fold with the spatula-shaped side.
Cuticle remover should never be used. With the knife-like side of the pusher, the invisible cuticle is now removed in erasing movements. This has to be done very thoroughly.
Bad preparation of the natural nail is the most common reason for lifting. So that the artificial nail loses its adhesion to the natural nail and comes off.
Now the nail is gently matted with a 240 grit file in the direction of growth. This means that you always work from the nail root to the nail tip. (illustration 1)
Figure 1: The right natural nail preparation
Commercially available white buffer blocks are far too coarse for working on natural nails and can damage them unintentionally. Working in the direction of growth is important in order not to damage the lamellae of the natural nail. It must never be filed "criss-cross".
The resulting dust is thoroughly removed with a nail brush. A new check is now carried out to determine whether there are still shiny areas. If necessary, it is reworked and the dust is removed again.
Now he can Dehydrator be applied. It is applied thinly several times in a row until it is absorbed immediately.
A primer can possibly also be used on problem nails. But you should always try it without it first, so as not to unnecessarily strain the natural nail.
If you use primer there are two forms of application:
- Apply very sparingly once and allow to dry
- Apply a thin layer and let it dry through, apply a second layer and rework with a damp cloth.
Primer prevents re-greasing for about 30 minutes. It is therefore advisable to only prepare each nail when it is its turn. This reduces lifting problems.
The nail is now ready for further product application.
Nail preparation is the be-all and end-all of durable modeling. So you should take enough time and work conscientiously.
The extension of the acrylic nails
Either a tip is glued to the prepared nail or a template is put on.
1. Extension with tip
If you want to set a tip, the primer should only be used after the tip has been glued and blended. The typing method is easy to learn, but has strong weak points in claw nails and other problem nails, because these nail shapes cannot be corrected in this way and incorrectly fitting tips can even lead to nail detachment (onycholysis).
You choose the tip that matches the curvature of the natural nail. The curvature of the tip must cling to that of the natural nail like a second skin. A common mistake is choosing by width. If the tip is too wide, it must be filed narrower, but it must not be too narrow under any circumstances. If it has the right shape, the adhesive edge is coated with tip glue and the natural nail is locked into this edge, then it is slowly pressed down.
There must be no air pockets or bubbles, these would be an ideal breeding ground for fungi. If there are any, the tip must be removed again with acetone. Never tear or try to remove it by filing if you don't have the necessary experience.
If the tip is in place, it is shortened with the cutter. The angle between the cutter and the tip has a decisive influence on the subsequent shape. The tip is now hidden. This means that you file the contact surface so thin that the natural nail is no longer visible. Tipblender is only of limited help here. Cleartips are recommended. Natural colors are difficult to dazzle.
The entire tip is thinned to half of its original thickness. Now the dust is removed and you can start with the acrylic application.
2. Extension with templateThe stencil technique is a little harder to learn, but it is also the more professional and cheaper option.
To do this, the template is placed on the prepared natural nail.
First you roll it a little over the brush and then pull it off the backing paper.
Then you put it on the natural nail in such a way that the midline becomes an extension of the finger bone and the side lines act like an extension of the natural growth line of the nail. (see picture on the right for clarification
3. The product order
In order to be able to handle the acrylic well, one should know the right technique, how to make "the perfect ball".
The brush is dipped into the liquid-filled dappen dish and fanned out so that there are no more air bubbles in the brush body. If no more bubbles rise up, you wipe it off at the edge and dip it into the liquid again. Depending on how often you wipe, you can determine the size of the balls.
The ball is just right if it doesn't drip off the brush and has a damp shine. If you put it down with light pressure, it hardly changes its shape and does not run away. It shouldn't look "dusty" either, because then it's too dry.
The wrong consistency means that the nail is not very resilient, can yellow more quickly or even break, although the statics have been built up conscientiously.
A relatively dry ball of cover powder put on and pressed into shape so that a beautiful smile line is created. You have to make sure to create a small "wall" that you can hit with the white ball for the French. (Figure 3)
Figure 3: The first acrylic ball (left) - the finished nail bed extension (right)
A second ball, which should be a little smaller and wetter than the first, is now placed directly behind it in about the middle of the natural nail and pressed flat towards the nails. This ensures that the The color transition is not so hard and the outgrowth is not so quickly visible becomes. A small ball of pink powder is placed on top. This makes the color appear rosier, evens out differences in height and increases the stress area.
The advantage of this method is that you can rework the smileline at this point with the file when the product has dried. This is particularly advantageous for beginners, because a nice French is not as easy as it looks at the beginning.
The French is formed from a large ball, in this example in white. The outer corners of the French can also be followed by a small ball. The more thoroughly the product is applied, the less it has to be filed afterwards.
Acrylic nails can be pinched. (Figure 4)
To put it simply, pinching means pressing the sides togetherto get a strong bulge in the tunnel of the nail. Similar to a dome of a building, this curvature then provides more stability and enables thinner processing. This technique is not for the inexperienced, as incorrect use can lead to the detachment of the nail bed or other nail deformities and damage.
Figure 4: Nail before pinching (left) - nail after pinching (right)
For beginners, it is sufficient to gently press the material together with your thumb and forefinger when it begins to go blind or matt. Now the template can also be carefully removed. The acrylic nail is fully cured when it produces a light tone when you tap on it. Damp material sounds rather dull.
The acrylic nail is now fully hardened and ready to be shaped. The artificial nail must never be filed in an uncured state, as this would lead to the material becoming detached (lifting).
Regardless of whether the nail is filed oval or square, it will be initially always worked out in an angular shape. This ensures that the statics of the nail are consistent.
You begin to file the lower side line (baseline). (Figure 5) It forms the extension of the natural growth line of the nail and leads straight out of the nail bed.
Figure 5: Working out the lower sideline, also known as the baseline
You can see well in this picture the arch, also called the stress point. This point is the highest point of the modeling and an important part of good statics. Depending on which standard you are working with, you guide the file parallel to the baseline when filing the free end of the nail or let the file fall off slightly. In the example shown, the so-called "New Style" is used.
Now the sidelines are filed. You should sit up straight and look at the filing core. This ensures optimal file guidance. The side lines lead forward from the widest point of the natural nail. Never try to make the nail look slimmer by filing it in!
Now it goes to the surface:
The area towards the natural nail is filed flat so that the outgrowth is not visible so quickly.
The filing diagram shows in which direction the file should be guided.
5. The finish
Finally, the nail is checked from all sides and touched up if necessary. If you are satisfied, you can only polish it or seal it with gloss gel.
In the example shown, another flower was applied using the one stroke technique. This is a nice way to make a jewelry nail quick and easy.
Finally, it is coated with a light-curing high-gloss gel and cured.
So that you can enjoy your acrylic nails for a long time, you should oil them regularly.
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