How to ventilate the attic without soffit openings

How to make ventilation in the attic

Nobody questions the need to insulate the attic to ensure a cozy atmosphere in the house in winter. But for some reason, many people forget about ventilation in order to maintain the resistance of the temperature regime. Meanwhile, proper ventilation of the attic not only maintains a constant microclimate, but also increases the life of the roof, prevents the appearance of mold and fungal growths. Well-designed ventilation is just as important as good thermal insulation.



  1. What is attic ventilation
  2. How to do ventilation in the attic
    • Ventilation of a cold attic
    • Ventilation of a warm attic
  3. Ventilation of the attic in the house: myths and facts
  4. Important notice from professionals
  5. Ventilation of the under-roof space: video

What is attic ventilation

Ventilation - an important design stage that makes it possible to regulate heat transfer. In summer the roof is heated to 160 degrees and the burning air gets into the house. But that's not the only cause for concern. In the cooler time on the isolated floors, condensation water collects and destroys the tree. Avoiding premature wear of the rafters helps with ventilation.

The ventilation system aims to mix the temperature of the external environment and the roof and prevents the appearance of ice, giant icicles and the descent of the "avalanche" during the melting snow. As you can see, the question of a reliable air exchange system is very important.

How to do ventilation in the attic

The attic can be cold and warm. The first option is traditional. In this case, the rafter system is not protected in any way, since only the insulation is insulated. The second is an echo of the Soviet era and has a single goal - the protection of technical communications.

Ventilation of a cold attic

The ventilation of cold attics should be adjustable. To do this, it is necessary not to close the box and rafters. Alternatively, it is possible to provide a cushion with gaps to ensure unhindered air circulation. If the roof is laid on tuldung or slate (without wind and vapor barrier films), then you can not worry - the air freely enters the attic between the waves of the roof and comes out.

It is important!
The metal tile is also ventilated, but can form condensation so that the film covering is absolutely necessary.

If the roof is gable, the ventilation ducts are in the gables. Quite an effective solution - loose-fitting Zashivka wooden overhangs. The even distribution of the narrow slots contributes to the effective ventilation of the entire attic.

If the abutments and sutures are tight or the gables are stone, holes will need to be drilled in the walls. They should be on opposite sides, which will help get rid of stagnant foci.

It is important!
The total area of ​​the ventilation ducts is calculated on the basis of 0.2% of the total floor area.

There is also a more economical option - the installation of typical ventilation grilles. One grate should be adjustable, the other - turned upside down. Insect penetration is protected by a mosquito net.

For the hipped roof, the ventilation is arranged in a different scenario. The entrance hole is from below (in the file) and the exit from above, on the ridge. If the overhang of the eaves is made of wood, the rods cannot be set very tightly at a distance of a few millimeters. When sewing with plastic, the individual parts must have holes in them. Such panels are called spotlights.

What if the file is already assembled and tightly packed? There is also a way out of this situation: grids with a grid of 5 cm in diameter, which are usually arranged in 80 cm steps along the wind curtain. To make holes you will need a drill bit with a round bit. The top terminal is upstairs. Note that a lot depends on the type of roof.

For a flexible roof, install a valve (turtle) or a ventilated hobby. For slate and Euroshift - a classic horse. For ceramic tiles - a special valve. Metal can be ventilated with a standard skate. It should be noted that the horse is not only a financially viable replacement for the valve, but also the ability to equip the ventilation system in the shortest possible time.

Some practice installing skylights (you can glaze them, or you can put grilles on them), but this task is difficult to implement and requires theoretical and practical training.

Ventilation of a warm attic

The natural circulation in heating systems is practically not used today. This means that when planning the conversion of an attic to an attic, the roof should be fully ventilated. For sheet metal and flexible tiles, it is necessary to equip a ventilated area - sewing a counter frame on the rafters. Windproof foils are preferred for metal roofs. Counter rails are optional for a slate roof, as the air must flow freely from bottom to top. The input takes place in a file and the output takes place via a skate.

The ventilated attic will be the same as other rooms. Air enters through the windows (it is allowed to install valves VTK), passes through the vents. If they are not in the walls, then aerators (mushrooms) are installed on the roof (on the side of the hood).

Ventilation of the attic in the house: myths and facts

The problem of ventilation of the attic gave rise to many myths. So what facts do you need to know to ensure a full broadcast?

Myth number 1. Warm air leaves the room through the ventilation ducts in winter. It is widely believed that ventilation interferes with heating during winter. However, it is unlikely that these are holes. If the house is warm for a long time and cools down quickly, then the problem is more isolated than ventilation. It is worth noting that poor quality insulation always directs moist air into the attic, which creates favorable conditions for condensation and subsequent rotting of wooden floors.

Myth number 2. Ventilation is only necessary during the hot season. Many are convinced that the ventilation system is only necessary to ensure ventilation of the building in summer. In fact, this is not entirely true. Insufficient ventilation in winter - the cause of the growth of icicles, the appearance of mold and fungus.

Myth number 3. The area of ​​the ventilation holes does not matter. And another deception. Relying on the chance of having canals with the eye, of course, is not worth it. The effectiveness of such ventilation will be zero. The air has a ratio of 1: 500 (where there is 1 m2 of ventilation per 500 m2).

Important notice from professionals

  • The ventilation system must be strong and withstand all weather conditions.
  • special attention should be paid to the holes on the roof ridge. According to tradition, they should be as close to the ridge as possible;

  • Continuous soffits can be installed under the eaves. They must be equipped with a thin sieve screen. The holes must be made of plastic or aluminum, which prevents corrosion;
  • One of the prerequisites for effective ventilation is the installation of air bubbles inside the attic (between the rafters). The holes must be positioned in such a way as to prevent clogging or obstruction of the air;
  • Carefully choose a location for the air handling unit. This should be the cleanest zone in the attic;
  • Install a fan on the outside of the roof to draw in air. The distance between the supply system and the fan must be at least 8 meters.
  • Do not forget to install a recuperator for heating and cooling the air;
  • Skylights not only carry practical advantages, but also give the building a unique look;

  • Provide ventilation pipes with grilles or diffusers.

Now you know not only how to equip the ventilation with your own hands, but also how to do it correctly and avoid the most common mistakes. And that is the most important!

Ventilation of the under-roof space: video